All my favorite New York collections seamed to be influenced by "Charlie's Angels " era, the wild seventies.
Marc Jacobs did a good job with its second collection, marc by marc…Strong colors and cheerful geometric prints on shirtdresses, corduroy pantsuits, coats and jackets and the next spring must-haves: patent loafers and color-block lady bags and square clutches. This retro show brought together stewardesses uniform and seventies pop culture idols and there were plenty of wearable pieces even if it somewhat reminded that quirky elements shown in his signature collection. A trench with an extra front panel in a contrasting color or a jersey-knit dress with one long sleeve and the other short and made from different, clashing fabric; they looked young and…ok, innovative, but, let’s face it Marc Jacobs is not a genius artist and he should stick with what he does best.
Derek Lam’s show was one of its best with a seventies vibe. The collection was young and provocative most of it because of those great leopard and zebra print dresses. Gray and light brown tones look fresh especially teamed with basic black and white or with subtle metallics. There were also beautiful mid-calf dresses with V-necks and a swingy black trench with bell sleeves and a double row of gold buttons. My favorites were the short silk evening dresses in warm hues.
Mark Badgley and James Mischka had in mind two different inspiration references: Art Deco 20s fashion and the seventies tailoring and sportswear. Drop-waist flapper dresses were showed along with fluid skirt suits and jumpsuits, wide-leg trousers, belted dresses and skirts, a short trench and a brown leather jacket and the maxi dresses so much related with the seventies epoch.Badgley Mischka