Best of Russian Fashion Week Spring 2009

Russian Fashion Week, the larger, more professional and more fashion forward of the two competing seasons in Moscow, staged more than 60 collections at the Spring/Summer 2009 edition held October 28-November 4, 2008. Best collection was undeniably Alexander Arngoldt's; also RFW's highlights included Biryukov, Lena Tsokalenko, Shumilo & Elagina and Julia Nikolaeva shows.

Spring-summer 2009 collection of Oleg Biryukov entitled "Retrofuturism" mixes 80's and 90's touches (carrot-leg trouser, voluminous blouses, minimalist, precise cut) with tomorrow's trends. The desirable result is a timeless harmony.

Biryukov @ RFW

Biryukov spring/summer 2009

The chromatic palette is literally shining: silver, shimmer pearl, glossy black with pure coral used as color key point. The fine, clean aesthetic is accentuated by "tough" natural fabrics (silk, cotton) capable to hold up the shape and create a volume.

Biryukov spring 2009

Biryukov at Russian Fashion Week

Lena Tsokalenko 's style can be considered romantic but with a touch of subtle irony, with an incredible sense of detailing but somewhat a little restraint. The look is hyper-feminine with suave, graceful silhouettes, using soft fabrics that ooze along the body.

Elena Tsokalenko @ RFW

Lena Tsokalenko spring/summer 2009

There is also a lot of artisan handwork and couture-like fabric manipulation with a sartorial focus on the specific pieces of female wardrobe: dresses, blouses, coats. Spring 2009 collection's melancholic vibe is enhanced by knee-length dresses in rich dark blues and browns.

Lena Tsokalenko @ Russian Fashion Week

A team of a pattern maker (Shumilo Lena) and a textile artist (Olga Elagina) with high diplomas from Moscow State Textile Academy started in 2004 a joint project of producing and selling jersey. In 2008 they established the brand Shumilo & Elagina along with additional industrial line S & E producing cotton, wool and cashmere knitwear.

Shumilo & Elagina spring/summer 2009

Shumilo & Elagina, positioned in the urban luxury category, with an exclusive, comfortable but also hip style, is targeted toward bright, ambitious, self-confident women, willing to take fashion risks.

Spring/Summer 2009 collection gathers up various fashion references from urban pieces like jumpsuits or jersey dresses in stone grey to safari looks such as vests and riding pants in sand beige finishing with animal prints and ethnic touches: folk patterns and native head gear.

Shumilo & Elagina @ Russian Fashion Week

Yulia Nikolaeva's Spring/Summer 2009 collection is a witty statement about nonchalant chic. Using mostly linen and rounded silhouettes, gentle to feminine curves, the understated mood is emphasized by neutral color palette: pale grey and beige, anthracite or silver-blue and tints of burnt-sienna.

Yulia Nikolaeva spring/summer 2009

Airy layered dresses, voluminous tops worn with loose cuffed shorts, super wide trousers and sequined knits add knee high boots and doctor's bags in glossy black leather, quirky eye-wear and ribbed beanies as accessories. These are clothes meant to be worn from morning till dawn, a contemporary twist to mixing casual and formal.

Julia Nikolaeva spring 2009

Yulia Nikolaeva @ Russian Fashion Week

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