Anatomy of Couture is Valentino's latest haute couture collection

Valentino returns to Paris with his haute couture spring-summer 2022 collection: here's all you need to know about the looks that charmed the fashion world.

The reappearance of black.

Even from a distance, a fashion show can impart that sense of enchantment, even though your feet are firmly planted on the ground. While you wait for the live streaming to begin - those crucial minutes before the music drowns out the talk of individuals in the room - you can observe the fashion system coordinated adequately along the way: what marvels is their black ensembles. We quickly recognize that the everyday uniform will be colored in this neutral hue, while the accessories (shiny necklace or stiletto heel) will be tasked with defining the silhouette.

The fashion show begins with a black mini dress paired with sheer ton stockings without spoiling the surprise. The fashion model allows herself to be watched as she descends the stairwell and traverses the ivory carpeted rooms reflected in the gilded mirrors at 8 Place Vendôme.

Variations on the concept of haute couture

We discussed black and its reintroduction, but we cannot conclude the discussion of the color palette. Pierpaolo Piccioli has always exhibited uncommon attention to color (even if he comes out with black trousers and a sweatshirt at the end of the show, thus becoming his uniform for greeting the audience). His singular aptitude has enabled him to revitalize Valentino by utilizing a broad range of colors: purple, blue, green, and pink. Orange is powerful and fierce, and there is no nostalgia for red, while the performance also features the show's brightest tones, electric and neon.

To the variants on the color, the theme is added those of non-grandiose clothing: Pierpaolo Piccioli presents extremely short dress, voluminous cloaks, sophisticated overcoats, flowing slacks, light blouses, and simple shirts on the runway.

The stairwell, a fresh vantage point

Numerous times, the staircase has been the focal point of haute couture fashion shows: their architectural structure gives a unique sense of suspense, between the tension of descending and the anticipation of viewing the entire image. However, the Valentino haute couture fashion show did not take place exclusively in the rooms of the French palace: the cameras mounted on the hall's ceiling provide a new perspective on fashion, particularly during the spectacular final phase, during which the models retrace their steps and position themselves according to the color shades.

Anatomy of the female body to convey its beauty

According to Anatomy of Couture, Pierpaolo Piccioli intended to communicate beauty by denying himself of paradigms and employing art history's most advanced formula. Indeed, fashion views haute couture as a means of expressing art as a fundamental concept of beauty: the subject of study is the feminine body in all its diversity. Backstage, you will find Man Ray's photographs, Botticelli's Birth of Venus, and some portraits of Kate Moss as interpreted by her boyfriend, Mario Sorrenti. In this approach, the stylist celebrates affluence, individualism, and diversity by portraying various forms, ages, and races. Valentino felt the models needed not to match the same body type (therefore suitable from Lady Gaga to Frances McDormand).

The sartorial anatomy emphasizes all of this with prominent cutouts, enormous volumes, ruffles, and bows, not to mention the vertiginous cuts and short hems that proudly reveal transparent stockings paired with stiletto heel mules. Sensuality is intense and conscious, accompanied by a certain step.

Gloves for the Valentino Haute fashion show

Gloves evoke nostalgic appeal, but with a completely new allure: the nature of an artistic quirk with an affectation quality is abandoned in favor of a rock element that bursts through impalpable transparencies, textiles composed of light and rich satin weaves. The fashion collection is consequently centered on the hands, as seen by the gloves and pockets on the garments: hands that gesticulate, hands that conceal, hands that are accompanied and design these awe-inspiring haute couture ensembles.

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